Salty. I was body surfing one time in Hawaii al

Salty. I was body surfing one time in Hawaii

alone

with 6 foot waves, trying my best.

in shallow water.

And a rogue 20 footer came up .

Your are neck deep and 20 feet or so is two stories above your head.

I could do nothing but get as high in the water as possible and try to swim on the top.

It planted me on the pebbled bottom and drug me along face down.

Didn't know when it would let me up.

I crawled out of that mess with scrapes and short of breath.

Whew.