Jeeping Up on India's Wild Lions
A fast and fairly furry safari that's far from Africa—and in Gir Forest National Park, home to remaining members of the majestic, tassel-tailed Asiatic leonines
India's lions are lesser known than its famed tigers, which live on dozens of tiger reserves and are fighting a well-publicized battle against poachers. Even many Indians are surprised to hear that wild lions live in their country.
These lions entered the Asian subcontinent around 6,000 B.C., roaming across northern and central India. While their numbers have dwindled, their legacy remains: India's emblem is three lions perched on a pedestal, and the ubiquitous Indian surname Singh is a variation of the Sanskrit word for lion.
By 1913, a mere 20 lions remained in Gujarat. The royal ruler the Nawab of Junagadh, the princely state near Gir Forest, invited Lord Curzon, the viceroy of India, to hunt lions with him. Lore has it that Lord Curzon refused and persuaded the Nawab of Junagadh to ban lion hunting. In 1911, a reserve called Sinh Sadan or "abode of the lion" was established in Gujarat; it became Gir sanctuary, in 1965.
“Even many Indians are surprised to hear that wild lions live in their country. ”
This was no guarantee of survival. General neglect within Gir resulted in many careless deaths. Lions drowned in open wells or were downed by electric fences. Twelve lions were killed between 1984 and 1995 by trains running on the rail line that cuts across the park. Their situation has improved, and Gir's lion population has grown from 359 in 2005 to 411 in 2010.
Other wildlife has also flourished in Gir. After admiring the lion pride, we crisscross the park's dirt roads, passing birds (there are 300 bird species in Gir), langur monkeys with whip-like tails and docile chital (Bambi-esque spotted deer).
Suddenly our guide yelps and points frantically. "You see? Leopard!" he shouts, grabbing our driver. We peer into the woods and see only trees, leaves and more trees—no sign of the famously elusive and skittish leopard.
The Lowdown: Gir Forest National Park, India
Getting There: A flight from New York to Mumbai takes about 14 hours. There are direct flights from Mumbai to the airport in Rajkot, in Gujarat state. The drive to Gir Forest National Park is two and a half hours. Your hotel can book a taxi.
Looking for Lions: Three-hour safaris leave from the visitors' center three times a day (the 6 a.m. session is best for spotting wildlife). Book in advance, as a limited number of jeeps are allowed into the park each day. The permit costs $45 per jeep (it seats up to six passengers). Hiring the vehicle and required driver costs $22 for each safari. The guide fee is $3 and the still-camera fee is $9.
When to Go: Gir National Park is open from October through mid-June, but it can be uncomfortably hot by mid-April.
Where to Stay: There are many guesthouses within a few miles of the park entrance. Maneland Jungle Lodge has basic but clean rooms with hot showers. Their small bungalows (from about $77 a night, including vegetarian meals, maneland.com ), located in a garden-like setting, were more inviting than the concrete hotels along the main road.
Other Things to Do: The Gir Interpretation Zone, a 412-hectare fenced-in habitat with lions, deer and other wildlife, is about a 30-minute drive from the park. It was designed to reduce the number of tourists in the park itself. Visitors view the habitat on a 45-minute bus ride. Entrance fee is $23. Contact the Forest Department at Gir Forest Park (91-028-7728-5541).
"You see?" Jankan yells again. No, we reply, shaking our heads. "D'oh!" he exclaims and smacks his forehead, à la Homer Simpson.
We forge on and drive past a few huts on a hillside. Incredibly enough, thousands of indigenous Maldhari herders live within Gir forest amid not only lions but also hundreds of leopards.
I watch a father lift a small child, forming a dark silhouette against the bright sun. I ask Jankan whether this is dangerous. "No! They are vegetarian. Very nice!" he replies. I am puzzled until I realize he thinks I asked whether the locals are dangerous, rather than the lions living near children.
Since the 19th century, Gir Forest has lost 45% of its area to farming, wood cutting and human settlements. More than 54 Maldhari settlements and 97 villages are within a three-mile radius of Gir. People gather wood or graze livestock in the lion's abode. It's no wonder that clashes arise between villagers and big cats. Swelling human populations mean deforestation and loss of habitat for the chital deer, which are the lions' primary prey.
Later in the day, our second foray into the park is also fruitful. Though it is after five in the evening, the sun is still a hot disc in the sky. Jeeps churn up clouds of dust as they line up on the road in a telltale sign that a lion has been spotted. We follow the traffic, then wait our turn to roll off the road and dip 100 feet into the forest. At first all I see is a forest ranger standing on a flat ridge of rock. Then he bangs a walking stick on the rock and a piece of the brown landscape moves.
A large male lion napping on the rock near a tree picks up his maned head, glares at us, then flops back down. The ranger clearly isn't heeding the words on the signs at the visitor center warning people not to disturb the wildlife. Lucky for him, the king of the forest is more concerned with napping than he is with snacking.
