The Lowdown: Exploring the Side Canyons

Getting There: Major airlines fly into Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport. The drive from there to the Grand Canyon is about 4½ hours. Alternately, you can take a 30-minute flight from Phoenix to Flagstaff Pulliam Airport, which is two hours by car from the Canyon. Most organized tours meet in Flagstaff.

Side-Canyoning There: Experienced boaters can organize non-guided trips through companies such as Professional River Outfitters ( proriver.com ), which rents fully equipped rafts and supplies food. Several guiding companies, including Canyon Explorations/Expeditions ( canyonx.com ) and Arizona Raft Adventures ( azraft.com ), offer expert-led trips that focus on hiking the side canyons.

Obtaining a Permit: Permits for private, nonguided trips must be secured independently through the National Park Service ( nps.gov ) and are only available through an annual lottery ($25 per group entry and $100 per participant upon permit redemption, nps.gov ). The wait can take several years. (We waited six.) This is not something you need to worry about if you take a guided trip.

When to Go: While you can raft or hike the canyon throughout the year, weather is most clement in spring and fall.

What to Bring: Specialized climbing equipment, such as a helmet, rope and harness, is mandatory for rappelling. The majority of canyon hikes require no more than a good pair of walking shoes. Rock-climbing approach shoes that are equipped with specialized rubber soles are especially helpful.